The alternative-leaning, freethinking population of Portland is destined to define the city. “Portland hipster” turns up nearly 1 million results on Google, PortlandHipster.com offers sardonic articles like “Creative Things to Do with Your Beard,” and the state’s preeminent newspaper, The Oregonian, even published a thinkpiece on the science behind becoming a hipster. The word bookends most conversations about the city and has a way of simplifying the place without really unpacking its charm. What does “hipster” even mean? Do Portland’s residents show an abnormal propensity for farmers markets? Grow their facial hair in a uniform manner? Gravitate towards a certain type of bike? Ultimately, the answers to those questions don’t seem to differ between Portland and any other young, growing metropolis. Digging a little beyond the superficial, visitors will find a free-flowing, vibrantly green city with an equal emphasis on the urban and natural. There’s also a world of beer to taste and some of America’s best affordable food, in case staying sedentary is your thing. If you have 72 hours, here are the highlights.

Where to Stay
The minimalist, industrial Ace Hotel is in the heart of downtown and nestled inside the old Clyde Hotel, which has stood just off Burnside since 1912. Ace designers retained most of the building’s original character, but also managed to squeeze in Clyde Common, a bustling small plates, fresh fare restaurant, and the ubiquitous hometown coffee joint Stumptown. For a different vibe, head across the Willamette River and try the retro converted motor lodge digs of the Jupiter Hotel (and catch an intimate concert at the attached Doug Fir Lounge). If you prefer your stay to be quirky instead of modern, try McMenamin’s Crystal Hotel, where each room is inspired by a different song or performance from an artist that played the nearby Crystal Ballroom.

Where to Eat
“No place on earth, with the exception of Paris, has done so much to influence my professional life,” American cooking legend James Beard said in reference to Portland. Andy Ricker’s Pok Pok is the city’s crown jewel, serving up Thai street food that rivals Chang Mai in a cramped, no-frills space. The Northern Thai noodle dish khao soi is a highlight, as are the fish sauce chicken wings. Creative cocktails abound as well.