Roses: aphorisms say to stop and smell them, to realize that by any other name they’d smell as sweet. And the practice of using their scent as a desirable addition to man’s natural musk is not a new one: in ancient Rome, roses were signs of luxury and power; Emperor Nero was known to shower guests in their petals. But roses also bring with them an aphorism that isn’t so sweet: beware the thorns. Applied to fragrances, the thorn is the edgy olfactory element that makes a rose scent complex and, if used judiciously, good for a masculine scent. If used poorly, it can scar with an overly feminine sweetness.
Rose scents for men are trending (just ask GQ, Elle and Details), but are by no means mainstream. Perfume houses are taking the traditional rose scent and interspersing it with other fragrance notes, resulting in smells that are symphonic, playing on opposite, complementary and transitional flavors. Each fragrance takes the wearer through a different experience, from an English garden to smoky woods, so different olfactory stories are told with each scent. Find the one that best suits you, and embrace the intoxicating effects of love’s most iconic flower.
A Note on Notes
Like wine or a musical arrangement, fragrances possess notes that work together to form a composition. Typically, three notes work together to form an overall impression that changes from first spray to end-of-wear. The following explanation draws from the chapter “Perfume Qualities” in Bruce Goldstein’s 2010 textbook, Encyclopedia of Perception, Vol. I. The top or head note of a fragrance refers to the small, volatile molecules that make up its first impression. As these molecules evaporate — “anywhere from two minutes to 11 hours after the application of a perfume” — the middle or heart notes can be sensed. As the middle notes disappear, the base notes have full rein. In contrast to the molecules of the top notes, the molecules of the base notes are heavy, sometimes lasting for over 24 hours.
Byredo Rose Noir
Light, then Dark: Rose Noir, made by Stockholm-based company Byredo, creates an experience of being wooed. Byredo calls it “decadent and dirty,” and even “animalistic.” The first impression is a crisp citrus that does not overpower. Floral notes are light, like rose water. Then comes the “animalistic” quality: something musky and earthy emerges, but the rose scent remains. The result is a complex, textured scent.
Notes: Top: grapefruit and freesia; Heart: rose damascena; Base: cistus, moss, musk.
